The Fann Mountains: when to go and what to see

The Fann Mountains sit in north-western Tajikistan, between the Zeravshan and Gissar ranges. Their southern approaches are a few hours' drive from Dushanbe — a rare case of high mountains starting almost directly behind a capital city.

The range is compact: within a few dozen kilometres you get dozens of lakes, more than a dozen peaks above five thousand metres, and passes you can cross in a single day. A week here shows you a great deal without losing days to driving.

The highest peak and the lakes

The highest point is Chimtarga at 5,489 metres. Around it stand Bodkhona, Zamok, Mirali and Chapdara — a wall of summits visible from most lakeside camps.

Still, people come here for the water. The lakes vary in colour depending on how much glacial silt they carry, from near-transparent emerald to dense turquoise.

• Iskanderkul — the best known and the easiest to reach, at roughly 2,200 metres. You can drive to it, and a waterfall of about forty metres falls nearby.
• The Alauddin lakes — a turquoise cluster at around 2,800 metres, the classic first night of a trek.
• The Kulikalon lakes — a basin under the Mirali wall, one of the strongest views in the range.
• Bolshoye Allo — a lake dammed by an ancient rockfall, higher than the rest and worth a separate day.

The water in all of them is glacial. It looks inviting and stays swimmable for exactly as long as your nerve holds.

When to go

The season here is short, and snow on the passes decides it.

June

The opening of the season. It is warm and green low down, but snow still lies on the high passes and the rivers run full with meltwater. A good time for the lakes you can drive to and for easy day walks. Leave the harder passes for later.

July and August

The main season. Passes are open, trails are dry, and nights at three thousand metres are comfortable. It is also the busiest time — you will not have the popular camps to yourself.

September

The best month if you can take the cold. The air is clear, the lakes are still, and there are far fewer people. Nights are already below freezing, and by mid-month the weather turns unpredictable.

October to May

The months when people either drive to Iskanderkul for a day or do not come at all. The high routes are closed by snow.

What to prepare for

Altitude. Most routes stay above 2,500 metres and camps sit at 3,300–3,500. These are not extreme numbers, but almost everyone spends the first day with a heavy head. Gain height gradually and do not schedule a pass for day two.

Temperature swing. You walk in a T-shirt under the midday sun and find ice in your water bottle at the same camp by morning. A warm sleeping bag matters more than a good-looking jacket.

Sun. At altitude it burns harder than it feels, and it reflects off snow and water. A hat and sunscreen are not optional.